Becoming a better climber. Training for becoming a trad climber?

Lately you’ve been writing me quite a lot about trad climbing and multi-pitch climbing, especially around how to get started, what is the base level that we should have, how to specifically train to feel confident in your leads…On the way that you write me, somehow I can sense that several of you presupone that you need an important baggage from the gym and under a certain training regime before you can even get to the base of a real mountain. […]

The Tafjord Haute Route: exploration ski where eastern Norway meets the west.

After the longest and snowiest winter I could remember in addition to the great arctic ski trip,  I was almost excited for hanging my skis until next year and rack all my trad gear for heading to the Norwegian Fjords and it’s oceans of granite. I guess I hadn’t figured out that not even on my second day here, Jens-Petter was already proposing me a last great expedition for ending the season properly. Well, I’m a simple man, so actually it didn’t took long before I was in. […]

Cueto Agero, South spur (300m; 6A+). Adventure climbing in la Hermida.

There had been now quite some time since I had in mind to do a powerful activity in one of the oceans of limestone of the Picos de Europa. I had a few routes in mind in the Naranjo, although it’s quite a complicated mountain. According to the schemes, it looks like one way or another you should probably top out, however, you hear quite often those stories about really strong rope parties having to turn back poorly after quite some drama. Ok, having some desperate fighting is always in the equation; there are not that many people that can afford to top such monsters on comfort, however, been able to choose, I rather take a bit less spicy for the beginning of the season.


Arctic days on the Planks EP4. Tamokdalen, Ice climbing, skiing with huskies and discovering Lyngen.

We were excited to drive to Nordkjosbotn and meet Aniek for our next adventure. However, as we made it quite early over there, we decided to go smash some Ice to fill the day as we found a few walls that seemed pretty much like sport climbing crags. Pedro fixed the rope and then we went for a few lines. […]

Arctic days on the Planks EP3: Senja: about beauty and learning through pain.

We finally picked up Pedro in the Airport of Tromsø and decided to book a lovely cabin for the night. Amongst other things, so we wouldn’t scare him with the mess inside of the van and so we could profit to clean and dry everything properly before arranging the space and gear of our three in a functional way for the trip. Senja felt a little far as to drive there straight, so we decided to check Tamokdalen on the way there. […]

Lifaloft: The new lightweight thermal insulation proposal by Helly Hansen.

Over the last two month I’ve been testing a new fabric. Again, it’s an innovative fabric, and again brought by Helly Hansen. I’ve taken it ski touring, climbing, on alpinism, ice climbing, skiing in the resort and hiking. I have worn it in the Pyrenees, Picos de Europa, in the Norwegian arctic and ranging from Read more about Lifaloft: The new lightweight thermal insulation proposal by Helly Hansen.[…]

Arctic days on the Planks EP2: About Hamperokken and the Alpha girls.

During the weekend we met a young Dutch mountaineer, she was enthusiastic and kind enough to invite us ski with her. Text message was something like “11.00 a.m. base of Hamperokken, take crampons, two ice axes and a rope.” We checked some topos of Hamperokken and oh god, what a mountain that sweet little Aniek had on the menu for us….


Artic days on the Planks EP1: about winter in Tromsø and learning to fly.

Friday sixth of April, ten o’clock in the night, we finally land in Tromsø. It’s my third trip to the region and I’ve already spent around six weeks up here; however, it has always been in summer or the fall. This time we brought the skis, the alpinism gear, ice climbing gear, and all the rock stuff. We’ve rented a van for two weeks and we feel ready. […]

Surfing the arctic: Lofoten.

In a few weeks I’ll be back in the arctic. This time for skiing. It almost feels rutinary to be back in the arctic: I’ve been doing it now for quite a few years in many different kind of trips. However it has always felt like home: its landscapes, its seas, its winds, its folks, its lights, its mountains…As I tend to say: “you will most likely meet me on stormy weathers where mountains meet the ocean”. […]

Discovering Ranero: Adventure climbing in Bizkaia.

Ranero is one of those places that you just don’t go climbing, but to do tough alpinism on rock shoes, at least that’s what I had heard of this place. My friend Carlos and I we were seeking to disconnect from all this skiing and do the first multipitch of the season, he proposed a route called In Decrescendo in Ranero. […]